SurvivalGuide
From PLSwiki
The ITU Survival Guide To Living in Copenhagen
This guide aims at gathering useful information for you as a PhD student in the IT university of Copenhagen. It is basically a collection of information that has been circulating among PhD students from previous generations, considering that there is a lot of minimal details to take care when you start a new degree in a new country, with culture, language and points of view probably different than yours. Feel free to contribute and make this guide even bigger.
After having received the letter of appointment from ITU, you need to contact the offices of the danish diplomatic representatives in order to start the your residence permit application. The process varies from country to country, considering EEA/EU and other countries as separate cases. The normal expected time for getting your residence permit granted is about a month since you started the process, but it can take way longer than that, so the sooner you start, the sooner you'll get a response.
In case you are part of a EU/EEA member state, you can apply for your residence permit while being in Denmark. You must apply for a residence certificate no later than 5 days after your arrival in Denmark. You will need it in order to register at the Central Person Registration Office/ “Borgerservice” where you obtain your Danish CPR number and health insurance card.
So you made it and came all the way till ITU. This is your first day and there is tons of new information, colleagues and a supervisor to talk, people in the administration requiring you to fill forms, contracts, open bank account and so on....Relax, take a deep breath and take it easily. We will go thorough some of the details of your first day in ITU:
You apply for a residence certificate at the regional state administration (in Danish “Statsforvaltningen”) where you live.
When submitting the application, please also bring with you:
• Your Passport • Your Letter of Employment from the IT University • OD1 Appendiks A. It is filled out by ITU. • One passport photo of yourself.
Your residence certificate is issued for the duration of your stay with a possibility of extension. The regional state administration will send your residence certificate to your home address in Denmark. You can find further information about the regional state administrations on their website (www.statsforvaltning.dk). http://www.statsforvaltning.dk/site.aspx?p=4176 Here is a link to the application form: http://www.nyidanmark.dk/resources.ashx/Resources/Blanketter/Ansoegningsskemaer/2008/OD1_ansoegning_eu_opholdsdokument_statsforvaltningen.pdf
You are required to register with the Central Person Registration Office (in Danish: “Folkeregistret”, Borgerservicecenter) and notify them of your address in Denmark. Please do so as soon as you receive your residence certificate. The Central Person Registration Office will then provide you with your personal CPR number and health insurance card. Like Danes you will need your CPR number whenever you deal with public institutions (e.g. hospitals, doctors and libraries), banks etc. The IT University also uses the CPR number as your personal identification.
When you register with the Central Person Registration Office, they will appoint a general practitioner for you if you do not wish to choose yourself, and they will issue a yellow health insurance card to you (in Danish “sygesikringsbevis”) with your name and CPR number and the name and address of your general practitioner. Once you are registered in the Central Person Register and have received a health insurance card, you are covered by the Danish health insurance scheme. The card ensures that you will get free medical treatment when you go to your general practitioner, a specialist, or a hospital. You always have to bring the card with you when you see a doctor. NB: Please note that in Denmark medicine is subsidized but not free, and that dental treatment is subsidized but not free
The first day after you get your employment contract, go to the Tax center (SKAT) located at Sluseholmen 8B, 2450 København SV, to ask for a tax card. Please bring with you your CPR number, a copy of your contract and, if you have a permanent residence abroad, a copy of your residence certificate translated to danish or english. A residence certificate from abroad will make you liable to a tax deduction on your salary (prior study from danish authorities. students under the 4+4 program cannot opt for this tax deduction).
You will need to open a bank account in a danish bank in order to get paid by the university. The offers ranges from a lot of options and credit rates, but you will probably start with a basic danish account that allows you to withdraw money in the ATMs close to the university. Ask for your account to be considered a "Nemkonto" account, so your payments will be all directed here. During the first three months you will be given a normal master card, that you should change for a Dankort after having passed that period of time. A Dankort will allow you to pay in most stores without having to withdraw money in advance, and works also as a credit card when travelling abroad. If you need a credit card package considering applying for it after three months of having gotten your dankort.
A good option of a bank with english interface can be the Danske Bank.
- You probably already have housing lined up, at least for the time being. Housing is certainly the major expense of living in Denmark. Your needs and location will dictate housing cost and whether you buy, rent, sublet, etc. Being able to read Danish, once again, is a big help here.
- Word of mouth! As you meet Danes and other ex-pats, ask for their advice about how to find affordable housing. Danish co-workers might have friends or neighbors with apartments for rent.
- In Denmark it’s okay to ask someone how much he or she pays for rent.
- It is currently a renter’s market. Consider negotiating the rent and the amount of deposit required. With so much new housing sitting empty, some sellers may be willing to rent until the housing market is more favorable for them. Inquire at real estate (bolig) offices.
- There are some great internet sites, but beware of scams. If an ad asks you to send a “key deposit”, bank account numbers, or any money at all, don’t.
- Good online resources:
- Get a bike IMMEDIATELY. In the city, it’s the fastest, cheapest, and most efficient mode of transportation. You’ll learn the city and get daily exercise. You can take your bike on the metro and train with a special klippekort, which opens up lots of possibilities for interesting excursions. Learn and obey all bicycle laws. ALWAYS lock your bike, preferably to something stationary (even insure it if you want). Carry your free city map or the free Cycling Map Copenhagen, available at public libraries.
- Inexpensive bikes: Check out the police auction. Contact Københavns Politi, Slotsherrensvej 113, 2720 Vanløse (Phone: 3874 8822), for details. Some bike shops sell used bicycles. Check the craigs list and Den Blå Avis. Try your luck with bidding on-line
- Use klippekorts, rather than purchasing individual tickets, when riding public transportation - purchase a variety of zones (2-zone, 3-zones, etc.). Check Rejseplanner for the exact number of zones for your trip.
- Tip: if you collect ten used klippekorts, you can go to norreport station and change them for a new klippekort.
- If you must use public transportation on a daily basis, a monthly pass will be economical than the klippekort.
- Take the Metro, rather than a taxi, to and from the airport – it is cheap, fast, reliable, and it operates 24-7.
- Going outside the city? You can mount your bike for free when commuting the S-trains (the offer is not valid for metro or bus lines).
- Visitors from home? Check out the flex-card for unlimited travel for 7 days. Also, free City Bikes (available only during the spring/summer season).
- Be alert for special train fares. For example:
- Sundays in June/July – only clip going outbound, then ride all day on that clipping
- The first three Sundays in December are usually free on S-tog.
- S-trains (S-tog) lines can be used for free the first sunday of the month (this does not apply for metro or bus lines).
- Ask in the DSB office or the Kort og Godt kiosk for the discounted package rate for the Louisiana Museum (round-trip train & museum entrance fee)
- In fact, ask often about special rates. Two people traveling round-trip Copenhagen to Malmö, for example, qualify for a significantly reduced “family” rate from certain stations. You won’t know this unless you ask.
- The Danish version of the [www.dsb.dk DSB] has more deals than the English version.
- If traveling longer distances, including outside of Denmark, check out the DSB Orange ticket (great deals, but must book in advance, no changes, no refunds)
Grocery shopping
Spend time comparing different chains. Carry a list of your 10-20 most frequently purchased grocery items and note the prices in the different chains. It’s quite illuminating.
- Netto, Fakta, Lidl, Aldi, Rema 1000 - offer excellent prices on many everyday items. A bit chaotic, yes, and sometimes selection is limited, but you can save a LOT of money by doing most of your shopping there.
- Føtex, SuperBrugsen, Kvickly - next level up. Sometimes good deals on meats, if you buy 3 or 4 at a time and can freeze what you cannot use immediately.
- Irma, SuperBest – high end. Shop there for specialty items you can’t live without and cannot find anywhere else.
- Read the prices carefully. Often the price advertized only applies if you buy a certain number
of the item. “Ta’ 4”, for example, means you must buy 4 in order to get the special price.
- Buy in season. Many vegetables are very economical, for example, beets, mushrooms, arugula, broccoli, red peppers, red onions, potatoes.
- Check the flyers you get as junk mail. There are sometimes good deals, e.g. wine and meat.
- Frequent the “Green Grocers” and compare prices. The prices vary according to area of town.
Nørrebro has many excellent stores, with hard-to-find spices, legumes, grains, & breads for very good prices. Also ethnic specialty grocers on Reventlowsgade by the main train station. Compare produce prices with Netto-like stores, however, as green grocers might not be cheaper.
Eating out
When a friend suggests going out for coffee or a meal, make sure you have done your research first! A cup of coffee or tea can cost you as much as 35 kroner and a glass of beer 60 kroner. Restaurant prices can be astronomical.
- Check out the many restaurants listed in “What’s Up” with entrees under 100 Kroner. For instance, here are some ethnic restaurant possibilities:
- Indian and Pakistani: Restaurant Sahil (Havnegade 33), Indian Corner www.indiancorner.dk, Ali Baba http://www.alibaba-restaurant.dk/
- Thai: Thai Pan www.thaipan.dk, or Thai Sweet Basil (Grønnegade 33)
- Vietnamese: Viet-Nam Nam www.viet-namnam.dk, Restaurant Saigon Quan www.saigonquan.dk
- Turkish: Ankara for lunch or dinner buffet http://www.restaurant-ankara.dk (two locations)
- Japanese: Sushi Time, Selfish (for take away) www.selfish.dk
- Ethiopian: Addis Mesof (Fredensgade 11) 7.
- Mainly vegetarian, but some other choices as well: Riz Raz for lunch or dinner buffet www.rizraz.dk (2 locations)
- Pre-game! Enjoy a glass of wine in a park or by a lake near the restaurant before your meal.
- At bars, you can nurse one beer all evening – no pressure to order more. Leaving “small change” is nice, but not necessary. In restaurants, you really and truly are not expected to tip, unless you receive extraordinary service.
- A great deal for beer - Carlsberg Brewery Visitors Centre – very interesting self-guided tour and two draft beers, all for 60 kr. [www.visitcarlsberg.dk]
Phoning can be very expensive in Denmark, often 1 crown a minute. Text messaging is cheaper, or free.
- Mobile? Consider how much, what time of day, how (calling or messaging), and where (outside of Denmark?) you will use a mobile phone. You might decide to buy a monthly plan, or just a SIM card. You might need to buy a dual-, tri- or quad-band, depending on where you want to use your mobile.
- Land line? Consider using your computer as a phone, instead. Check out FREE and almost-free calling all over the world with Skype [www.skype.com].
- Phone card? Allows you to make international calls, but you’ll still first need a phone. Phone cards are widely available, with varying rates depending on whether you use a land line or mobile. Check the internet for the one best suited to your needs, eg. www.comfi.com.
Museums and Art
Once you have some time off from your PhD, consider these options worth visiting, some of them are free or almost free.
- National Museum and the out-lying places, like Frilandsmuseet, Liselund on Møen [www.nationalmuseet.dk] Plan to visit many times – these places are enormous. Inquire about free English language tours.
- City Museum on Fridays [www.bymuseum.dk]
- Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek on Sundays [www.glyptoteket.dk] – a treasure!
- Danish Design Center on Wednesdays after 5:00pm [www.ddc.dk]
- The Danish Resistance Museum (Frihedsmuseet) [www.natmus.dk]
- Thorvaldsen Sculpture Museum on Wednesdays [www.thorvaldsensmuseum.dk] Free audio guide.
- Statens Museum for Kunst [www.smk.dk] (enormous permanent collection free, entrance fee for the special exhibitions). Also, visit The Royal Cast Collection, at a separate location.
- Botanical Gardens [botanik.snm.ku.dk]
- Frederiksberg Have and Søndermarken Park, slot, art exhibition, view of zoo elephant house, special small gardens.
- Danish Parliament (Christiansborg Palace) – inquire about free English language tours [www.folketinget.dk]
- While strolling the Strøget, pop into the Royal Copenhagen Museum and watch hand painting
- An easy bike, train or bus ride north of the city, in Klampenborg, the Deer Park (dyrehaven) where thousands of free-ranging deer can be viewed.
- Tip: buy a Kultur Nat (Culture Night) button in October and see all the other museums in town that normally charge admission fees.
Reading
Be careful about ordering books on-line from abroad. The duty tax can be high. Use www.amazon.co.uk rather than www.amazon.com to avoid the duty. Check out www.bookdepository.co.uk – another good deal with free delivery.
- Learn to use Denmark’s excellent library system. Besides the websites for Copenhagen [www.bibliotek.kk.dk] and Frederiksberg [1], search the entire of Denmark and request books and movies to come to your local library [www.bibliotek.dk.]. You can get a library card even if you do not have a CPR number – ask at the main library.
- Join a book group. Borrow or exchange books with friends.
- Some booksellers carry used books.
- Buy books at the AWC Holiday Bazaar in November – great selection and deals
- The Copenhagen Post is Denmark’s only English-language newspaper in print. Pick it up free
on Thursdays and Fridays at tourist hotels or the Tourist Information Visitors’ Centre. You can also view it on-line [2]. Politiken now has an on-line English version [3].
- An increasing number of newspapers can be read free online. For example, The New York Times [4]. Or news reports, such as BBC [5]
- If you can read Danish, there are many other free or low-cost newspapers in Copenhagen.
Cultural Copenhagen
Many activities are held outdoors, most of them free of charge. Try to get informed about the happenings on the following events:
- Concerts and recitals (jazz, classical, choral, organ, etc)
- The Queen’s birthday, April 16, at Amalienborg Palace
- Saint Hans night in June (on or near summer solstice)
- Santa Claus parade in July
- The lighting of the Christmas tree at the Rådhus
- Lecture series at Copenhagen University Performing Arts
- The box office at August Bournonvilles Passage 1, in Kongens Nytorv, sells half-price tickets at 4:00pm day of event. Includes opera [www.operahus.dk]. 50% discount if 25 or under, 65 or over, when ordering tickets a week in advance.
- At www.latesale.dk you can buy theater tickets (Royal Theater, Opera, etc) for half price on the day. Sign up for a newsletter which arrives around 14:00 every day. At 16:00 you can buy the tickets online.
Sports
- Bike!
- The university has a well-equipped motion room in the basement. You can get access to it by paying a semestral/year fee in the economy department. Comparing to the prices in the rest of Copenhagen, it is a pretty good deal.
- Join a walking or jogging group
- Friday Night (in-line) Skate [www.fns-cph.dk]
- Check out the free salsa, swing dance, tango, etc. lessons listed in Copenhagen This Week
It can be traumatic and dampen the initial excitement of living in Copenhagen. Getting through the first year seems to be a financial landmark...you meet friends, neighbors and co-workers who share advice on how to make your kroner stretch as much as possible, and you learn to read a bit of Danish, which helps a lot. So, hang in there. It will get better. Rise to the challenge, and saving money will give you a sense of control and can even become fun!
Top Ten Money Savers
- Get a CPR card
- Find affordable housing through word of mouth
- Know your grocery stores and learn the prices of everyday items
- Get a bike
- Carry a map
- Use klippekorts when traveling on public transportation
- Learn to read survival Danish
- Know which restaurants have great-tasting, under 100 kroner, entrees
- Get into events and museums for free
- Swap tips with other expats
- Learn Survival Danish
- Most communes pay for all or most of your Danish language class fees for three years. Even if you plan to live in Denmark just a short time, taking language classes greatly enriches your experience here. You learn about culture, customs, how things work in Denmark, and you meet interesting people from all over the world.
- Learning to read Danish is a worthy goal in itself, as it enables you to take advantage of great deals on internet sites and in ads and newspapers.
- If you want to learn on your own, there are many excellent self-paced curricula at the library.
- For a free Danish grammar tutorial in English (but with Danish examples), check out http://users.cybercity.dk/~nmb3879/danishgram2.html
- Use the free on-line translator at www.gramtrans.com or, even better, http://www.google.com/translate
- A better translation tool, shareware for some limited uses a day, can be found at: http://gramtrans.com/
- Some schools:
- København Sprogcenter
- Clavis
- Studieskolen
- The danish language course provided by the ITU.
